What to do with those little leftover bits of bias binding

After all the hats and Tulip Dresses I made in the Summer (and some secret-book-business sewing), I seem to have a lot of spare bias binding bits.... and they're cropping up on lots of little winter pinnies.

The green corduroy dress is from this book and the purple one is a New Look summer pattern (forgotten the number but it's something like this) in a bit of cotton coat-weight fabric.

The orange corduroy Tulip Dress got the yo-yo treatment with it's bias tape detailing. (I also made a small beret to match). I'm yet to photograph these garments ON THE CHILD....

...because she's being as cooperative in front of the camera as she usually is.

But I can assure you, she looks very cute.

Nothing to be afraid of, folks...

It's just a bit of bias binding.

It's useful stuff for making false hems (especially on heavy fabrics and curved hemlines)....


...doing cute details on twirly skirts for small girls.... or big girls, for that matter. (My usual model had better things to do today. This one is equally headless but a little more compliant).


Bias binding is excellent for binding seams on tricky shaped bags and purses (which means that you can fully line the tricky shaped bag or purse). It's a design feature, to boot.

And you can make quick bibs, pot holders and even mini-oven mitts in no time at all.

This one was a request from the smallest cook in the house. (I'm a bit nervous that it might actually be used to carry something hot, so it comes with a list of rules.... luckily, our cook follows rules... mostly).

So anyway..... I tend to be a bit evangelical about bias tape makers. I was surprised to read that some people buy them and don't try them out. Or some people don't know how to get the most out of them. I've shown this before, but I'll add a bit more detail this time. Complete demystification.

How to use your bias tape maker...

1. To calculate how wide to cut the strip, I double the finished width of the bias tape and then take off a millimetre or two (eg. For an 18mm bias tape maker I cut 35mm wide bias strips). I use my metric quilting ruler and work in millimetres. I'm very sorry - I have absolutely no idea how that works in inches.

The quilting ruler has a bias line (to line up with the selvedge or straight grain) and then a metric grid to measure the width and length of the piece you're cutting. Super-duper quick and accurate.

2. If you need to join two pieces, align them so that they are right sides up and the pointed ends lock in to one another, as shown below.

(It's also a good idea to press your fabric before you start..... I seem to have skipped that step here).

3. With the right sides of fabric facing, match the two strips together along the short edges. Cross the pointed ends with an overlap of about 6mm (anywhere around a quarter of an inch will do the trick).

4. The crossover point of the seam allowances will form right angles on both sides of the tape. Backtack and seam from one crossover point to the other.

5. Press the seam allowances OPEN and then trim them down to about 2.5mm. Trim the ends of the seam allowances to points, as shown below.

6. Cut the end of the tape to a point and thread it through the bias tape maker (cutting it to a point makes it thread more easily).

7. As the point peeps through the end of the bias tape maker, put your iron straight onto it! Hold the little handle and pull the bias tape maker gently with one hand while you follow close behind with the iron in the other hand. Steam works a treat here.

Slow motion replay...Use the pressure of the iron to hold the tape in place while you pull the bias tape maker a centimetre or two. Then move the iron up to the very end of the bias tape maker. Joosh it with steam. Pull another centimetre on the bias tape maker and then move the iron up to the bias tape maker.... that sort of thing...).

You will now have beautiful bias binding.

7. When you sew the bias tape to the edge of your fabric, lay the tape right side down on the underside of the edge you're binding. Sew along the crease on the bias tape.

8. Trim the seam allowances so the bias binding will be able to fold easily over the edge and sit on top of the stitches (seen in red, below) on the other side.

9. Press the bias tape into place over the stitch line, and then topstitch it about 1mm from the edge.

I hope that takes a bit of the mystery out of it and encourages you to go forth and bind everything you can. Like I do. Honestly, I really do.

If you have a bias tape maker and haven't used it, please try it. It really will open up a whole new world of possibilities for sewing all sorts of things. If you haven't got one, we have a special going at the moment that might be right up your alley. The patterns that are on sale with the bias tape makers also include a few more tricks (like a clever way of finishing a bound edge with an undetectable join).

I took more photos of the twirly denim skirt detail being constructed but this post is already too image heavy. Does it warrant a quick tutorial or can you get the idea from the photo (at the top of this post)?

I'd also love to hear from anyone who LOVES their bias tape maker. I'm feeling a bit lonely and geeky here right now. The only people who commented on my last post about them were the non-users.... Please tell me I'm not alone (I accept the fact that I'm a geek... it's just the no-mates-Mallalieu tag that irks me).

Just one more and then I'll stop...

I've been a little bit obsessed with this inkjet printable fabric.
I altered the flap on the Large Tote to show off my wee girl's beautiful painting. It's covered with a layer of pvc and bound with black pinwale corduroy (gotta love that bias tape maker!!).

I thought the lining was worth showing. It's from the Rio range by Marcus fabrics. LOVE IT! Love the whole range, in fact... and ... ummm ...HAVE most of the range in my stash!

The gorgeous Justine dropped in with the newest MixTape yesterday. Our little girls played, we chatted. I think I might have given her a few ideas about ways to use her little one's beautiful paintings (which has got to be better than what I shared with Jodie!).

Sewing up a storm...

...of the force-9 variety. I've been having a lovely time with an old fashion-industry friend in my studio. We both have lots of projects on the go and have done ABSOLUTELY NO TIDYING since before xmas!!! It's a whirlwind of ideas and a flurry of cutting and sewing action. Garments are appearing as if by magic (...and the studio looks like it's been hit by two hurricanes).

I made this towelling art smock for the wee one, using the trusty 18mm bias tape maker to make the bound edges.

I also pulled out all the knit fabrics in my stash and made a ton of simple little leggings and shorts for my girl, and a simple t-shirt or two for myself. This little dress was whipped together without a proper pattern - a test run that kind-of worked. (shame I didn't iron it before photographing it!).

In order to make it look less like an accidentally-successful-test-run I did a simple bit of couching (zig-zag over yarn) and discovered something new with yo-yos...

You can pass off a slap-dash attitude as "rustic charm" and machine stitch them roughly into place!!! I really like the textural effect, and will be using this method again. I'll even use it on a properly thought-out project.

Other projects on the to-do list....

Unfortunately I think it's a bit unrealistic to expect to finish all I have ear-marked.

I hope you're all enjoying your holidays and wish everyone a happy and creative 2009!!!

..and it only took me NINE HOURS!!!

I'm packed and ready for that taxi to the airport in the morning!! I packed, re-packed, weighed and re-packed, and I now have three 20kg bags (luggage capacity for the whole family!!). That's just the patterns and sample bags. Our personal stuff will be in hand-luggage! I have NO IDEA how we're going to manage this load once we leave the airport and those handy little airport trolleys. There are only two of us who are big enough to carry more than a teddy-bear. Ho hum.... we'll work it out (she laughs nervously).

I had to do a bit of impromtu bag-making at the very last minute this afternoon. The nasty (and very cheap) big square bag I'd spent all day packing broke a strap when I tried to lift it. A piece of cotton drill, a couple of long zips, a length of webbing and a bias tape maker were quickly put to work in one of those "wrap it around and sew it" kind of bags (no measuring, no pattern.... lots of bribing my little assistant with treats if she let me finish my sewing!!!). It came together beautifully and I just popped the broken bag inside it!!!

All going well, I'll be on the third floor with Living Creatively at the Stitches and Craft Show from 1pm tomorrow, and then all day Saturday and Sunday. I'm looking forward to catching up with Cathy and Louise there tomorrow, and then Fi and Justine will be there on the weekend. Gosh, it'll feel just like home... or at least like the Melbourne S&C show in March!!!

Another Bias Tape Tutorial

Honestly, I'll stop banging on about these bias tape gizmos eventually.... but I HAVE to let you know this trick. When you want to make a simple button closure for a bag (or garment) and you don't have matching cord or braid for the loop, do you go to the trouble of making rouleaux? I don't. I do THIS!!!........

HOW TO MAKE SUPER-QUICK BUTTON LOOPS....

1. Following the instructions in the 6mm "Clover" Bias Tape Maker packet (or this tutorial), make a length of tape - BUT YOU CAN CUT IT ON THE STRAIGHT GRAIN IF YOU WANT TO MAKE IT EASIER TO SEW!!!

2. Fold the tape in half lengthwise and press it again, keeping all the raw edges of fabric on the inside. 3. Stitch the two folded edges together (or zigzag over the full width of the folded fabric if you are uncertain of your ability to sew accurately on narrow things).4. Measure a loop to go around the button of your choice and add extra for the seam allowance at both ends. Trim away the excess.
5. Attach the loop (UPSIDE-DOWN, to the RIGHT SIDE of the top CENTRE-BACK edge of your bag) with a few stay-stitches.
6. Attach your facing/lining in the usual way, and sew a button at CENTRE-FRONT.Voila! Matching button loop in minutes... and no burned fingers!! You can also use the larger sized bias tape makers for larger button loops. Below is the inside of the (WIP) Carry-All bag, and a larger loop is on the notebook computer compartment pocket.

PS. The finer points of making a button loop closure can be found in these pattern instructions....

Laptop Bag Pictures

Here's one I prepared earlier...You can see a bit of bias tape action around the edges of the flap, and on the internal divider pocket, too!!
Can you see how I've managed to complicate/prolong the instuction-writing process...?
I'm also experimenting with different interfacings and stabilisers to get it JUST RIGHT to carry a computer safely and snugly.

Good things come to those who wait.... and this is going to be VERY GOOD. But you're going to have to wait a little bit longer.... sorry (insert apologetic, kind-of wincing smile here).

So what's all the fuss about Bias Tape Makers...?

...They will CHANGE YOUR LIFE, that's what!!! Little wonder that a few were mentioned on "This Is My Trade Secret" posts, or in the comments following. I particularly like the Clover Bias Tape Maker (well, Clover seem to do a pretty good job of just about EVERYTHING, don't they?). Since discovering them I've bought one in every size and have been happily binding anything I can possibly bind. After years of doing this the LONG WAY around, I can't get over how quick it is now.

A bias tape maker makes perfect bias tape in the fabric of your choice, and makes it so that the seam allowances go ALL THE WAY TO THE CENTRE (unlike the store-bought variety), so there's little chance of fraying edges if you go a little bit wobbly with your stitching!!

A quick tutorial.... Using both the 6mm and 18mm Clover Bias Tape Makers (in case you were wondering).

1. Measure a bias strip to the width specified in the instructions (in the packet) for your particular size bias tape maker. A quilting ruler and cutting mat make this super-quick and accurate (both ruler and board usually have bias guides, so you can follow whichever is easiest for you).2. SnnnnnnnniP!... a rotary cutter makes this a breeze. If you haven't got one you'll just have to use old fashioned ruler, chalk and scissors. Cut your bias strip out.
3. Cut one end of the bias strip to a point to make it thread more easily through the little wonder-gadget. With the Clover 6mm bias tape maker there's a handy little hole in the bottom that allows you to move the fabric through with a pin. Aren't Clover clever...? They think of EVERYTHING!4. With the iron in one hand and the little handle of the bias tape maker in the other, simultaneously slide the bias tape maker backwards and press the tape immediately as it comes out at the front. The raw edges will be folded neatly into the centre of the tape.Now you have lots of lovely bias tape to make pretty bound edges or decorative applique on bibs, bags, purses, laptop sleeves, pockets, pot-holders... you name it. I'll be posting another tutorial for the 6mm bias tape maker as soon as possible.... watch this space!

Isn't that easy...?

If you're new to actually USING bias tape then it might be best to come to "A Sharper Edge" class, read a sewing book or buy my ...ahem... Laptop Bag pattern (if I can stop blogging long enough to finish those instructions!!!). I'm currently working on more detailed bias tape instructions for that one. I told people that the pattern was "coming soon" in January (!!?) but keep coming up with new ways to vary the design... which means MORE instructions to write!!!

Oh - and I am absolutley GOBSMACKED by the number of responses to my little giveaway (and am blushing CRIMSON with all your lovely compliments!!). We might have to find out all about this random number generator thingame I keep reading about.... There are too many names to cut up bits of paper and put in a hat - we'd be at that all afternoon!

Stay tuned tomorrow to see who's the winner. Get ready to contact me with your postal address (and yes - I'm quite happy to post internationally!!).