Ridiculously Easy Zippered Cushion Covers (with lovely Sharp Corners)

I spent Thursday this week at the Royal Melbourne Show, at the Spotlight Inspiration Space, showing people how to make cushion covers. I promised a free tutorial on my blog, so here it is (sorry - a day later than planned!).

The method I chose was one that hid a multitude of sins if a beginner were to give it a go. There is a zipper, but it's well-hidden beneath a wide overlap of fabric. And of course, I included tips to make the whole process a lot easier and faster than you'd think. And of course, I used fusible/hemming tape (I always use fusible tape).

YOU WILL NEED

1 x Square cushion insert (any size)
1 x dress zipper - at least 10cm (4'') longer than the cushion insert
Hemming tape/fusible tape/cut a strip of Vliesofix (Bondaweb)
Thread to match back fabric (see below)

Fabric -
FRONT- Cut a square of fabric 4 to 5cm (1.5 '' to 2'') longer and wider than the cushion insert.
Eg. For a 41 x 41cm cushion insert, I cut a 45 x 45cm square of fabric.

BACK - Cut fabric same width as front, but cut length 7cm (a little less than 3'') longer. (Length doesn't have to be a very accurate 7cm measurement - a little more or less wont hurt).

HOW TO MAKE THE CUSHION COVER

1. On the back fabric, divide the length (including the extra 7cm) into thirds. Round this measurement to the nearest centimetre or half-inch, and cut 1/3 from one end of the backing fabric.

2. On the bigger piece (we'll call it the bottom piece) of the backing fabric, lay the zipper face down along the cut edge. Align the edge of the zipper tape with the edge of the fabric, with the end stopper of the zipper at least 2cm (3/4'') from the side edge of the fabric. The head of the zipper should be hanging off the other end of the fabric.

3. Using a zipper foot, stitch the zipper to the fabric.

4. Turn the zipper to the right side, and all the seam allowances will fold underneath the fabric side of this seam. Topstitch along the edge of the fabric - about 2mm (a generous 1/16'') from the seam.

5. With right sides of fabric together, place the smaller piece (we'll call it the top) over the zipper. Align the cut edge of the fabric and the zipper tape, and check that the side edges of the smaller and larger pieces align on both side seam edges. Stitch the zipper tape into place along the fabric edge.

6. Place the square front piece on the table and then place the back (zippered) piece over the top, right side facing up. Align the bottom edge of the back with the bottom edge of the front and smooth the back piece over.

7. Now align the top edge of the back piece with the top edge of the front, allowing the extra fullness to fall over the zipper area.

Use your hands - and then an iron - to flatten this fullness into an overlap over the zipper. If your fabric is in any way delicate, use a pressing cloth under the iron when you press.

8. Fold back the top piece so that you can see the seam where it attaches to the zipper. Place hemming tape (or fuse paper-backed fusible tape, or a strip of fusible webbing) along the seam (taking care not to let it overhang the edge of the zipper tape and stick to your ironing board).

7. Fold the top of the cushion back into place and press it again. This will stick the fabric into place exactly where you need to sew it.

8. To make it easier still, feel through the fabric for the top edge of the zipper chain and run your thumbnail along, to mark a line to follow with your stitches.

9. Use a zipper foot and stitch along the thumbnail-indented line.

10. Open the zipper  little way and then align the open ends as if the zipper were closed. Stitch through the overlapped fabric, across the ends of the zipper. You can now safely trim those zipper ends off (without risking accidentally losing the zipper head).

Hurrah! you've inserted a zipper!

11. With right sides together, match the back to the front, aligning all the edges. Take one (any) side and seam it together with a 12mm (1/2 '') seam allowance, backtacking/backstitching at each end of the seam. Don't pivot and turn the corner... this is where the "neat corner" trick comes in!

12. Overlock/serge/zigzag the raw edge of the seam allowance.

If your fabric type is not likely to fray during laundering (eg, gentle handwash or dry clean only), you can skip this step, but if you are using a fabric that will be put into a washing machine, it's always a good idea to finish the seams.

13. Fold the seam over - right on the seamline - and stitch the next seam, capturing the folded seam allowance. Overlock/serge/zigzag that edge.

14. Continue folding, seaming and finishing each edge until all four sides of the cushion cover are sewn.

15. Turn through the corners:
Push your index finger right up into one of the corners, with the inside (fingerprint) facing the folded seam allowance. Fold the other seam allowance over the top of the first, and hold it with the thumb of the same hand (basically making an OK hand-sign with fabric in between).

Pinch your fingers together with the folded seam allowances in between, holding them as close to the corner point as you can, then flip the fabric through to show the right side (don't stop pinching the corner).

Voila! Sharp corners! (This works on fine fabric for collars and cuffs, too - anywhere where the build-up of bulky seams doesn't matter.)

16. Press the seams flat and then press the cushion cover.

17. Pop the cushion insert in and do up the zipper.

18. Feel a bit clever and make lots more cushion covers. Play with embellishment ideas.

And have a great weekend. xx

Two tutorials and and an interfacing sale.

There's been a bit of a blitz on A-Line Skirt-making around these parts.  This one is in fabric by Surface Art, and it's headed for display at GJ's Discount Fabric.

Instead of a plain skirt with a print panel, this time it was a plain panel on a print skirt.  It needed a little something to make it sing.  I went with a bit of raw-edge applique and a squiggle of stitchery.

I fused some Vliesofix (WonderUnder) fusible webbing to some scraps and then cut out parts of the fabric design.

After much aranging and rearranging, a design was finalised and the pieces were fused into place on the skirt.

On the underside of the fabric panel, I fused some Fuse-and-Tear embroidery stabiliser.

...and stitched all over the place.  The stabiliser stops the fabric from puckering as you embroider.  Because it's fused to the fabric, you don't have to put it in a hoop.  It stays nice and flat.

And then you tear it away from the back of the fabric.

I use this stabiliser a lot on bags and purses, and I don't worry too much about getting all the little bits out of the stitches, because nobody will ever see it there.  On the skirt, I had to employ the use of a tailor's awl to pick away the stabiliser between the denser areas of stitching.

But it was worth it in the end, when the stitched design was all lovely and flat. Not a pucker in sight.

 

I accidentally bought WAY too much Fuse-and-Tear stabiliser a while ago, and I've decided to clear it at wholesale price. $1.80 per metre, in store only (3/99 Helen St Northcote), until sold out.

 

If you're not into stitchery and think this isn't for you, can I just give you another use for it?  In place of tracing paper, baking paper or non-woven interfacing, this stuff is excellent if you're tracing off patterns. 

 It's super-strong, and doesn't tear with pinning.  The fusible stuff on the back is kind of rubbery, and holds the fibres together.

 But better than that, it makes the patterns FUSIBLE!  You don't actually need pins!

 And (like freezer paper) it peels off and sticks down again, at least a few times.  I've only re-used my patterns 3 times, but each time it stuck perfectly. 

I imagine small, detailed pattern pieces, or fabric with a lot of movement and drape, could be managed nicely with a fusible pattern.

To make it worth the trip in to see us for $1.80 stabiliser, this week we're also offering a 10% discount on all the interfacings and Vliesofix we have in stock.  There are also be a few other pattern and hardware bargains to be had.

Memory Chest

I made a travelling trunk for my mother - just a small one.

With stamps and labels from the places she's been... young single girl, wife, mother...

I added recent photos of my girl and her art, and then filled it with Mum's photos of the extended family (they used to be in a very ordinary-looking basket).

She seemed to like it.

Technical information: I roughly followed a project in this book, and used a combination of fabric, Peltex, Fast2Fuse, interfacing, Vliesofix and injet-printable fabric. The base fabric is Portuguese linen from the wonderful Méri and some fabric offcuts in prints that were reminiscent of the age in which my mother grew up.

PS. Thanks to all the lovely messages of support re: my last post. I hope that the discussion will make people think a bit more about sharing other people's ideas.

Thanks again, folks. I'm truly touched.

Simple Ideas for Library Bags

I have been overwhelmed and heart-warmed by the response to my little idea for a sewing bee. We now have a TEAM....and it's growing by the hour!!! We have international and interstate volunteers as well, donations of bag-fillers coming in, and I've been flat out all day answering emails and phone calls. THANK YOU FROM THE BOTTOM OF MY HEART!!!! I can barely swallow for the lump in my throat.

A lot of people are asking what types of bags, what sizes etc....

The sizes can vary, the styles can vary, the fabrics can vary - it's all about giving something that is handmade with love and thought.... not a mass-production run. Your individuality of design and construction counts for a lot. We need bags for a range of ages and for girls and boys - so a good thing to do is think of the kids you know (your own or other people's) and think about what appeals to them. Think about the size they are and what they're likely to carry in a bag.

I prepared a little tutorial for a basic drawstring back-pack style bag, and made a start of a few others - which I'll have printed out on Saturday.

1. Cut 2 rectangles of fabric. I found these dimensions (on the pattern in the photo below) worked well for a toddler size bag. I made others at 31 x 35cm and they would be good a baby bag (and you don't have to make it as a back-pack - it could be a simple drawstring bag). You could also do a larger version. This is a simply a rough guide.

2.Notch a point at least 10cm (4") from the top on both side seams.

3. Think of a quick, effective embellishment idea.... a cute bit of applique', for example (this was just cut out of a fabric print as a square and zig-zagged on to the base fabric)

... or a strip of fabric can be made into a compartment pocket (pic below) or a patch pocket. You could sew on a few buttons, do a bit of stitching, printing, patchwork, a couple of yo-yos.... oh, it's endless.... and REALLY SIMPLE!!!

4. Overlock or zig-zag around the side and bottom edges of each rectangle.

5. Seam the two rectangles (right sides together) from notch to notch (side seams and base seam)with a seam allowance of 1cm. Leave the last 2.5cm (1") of from the bottom corners on the side seamopen. See pic below.

6. Press open the seam allowances all the way around. Stitch the seam alllowances above the notches open (as shown below).

7. Fold and press the top edge of the bag twice to make a casing of at least 2.5cm (1"). The one in the photo below is about 3.5cm.... it really doesn't matter how wide it is as long as it's at least an inch.

7. Stitch the casing to the bag about 2mm in from the folded edge of the turning. I also re-enforce the ends with little triangles of stitches.... but that might be just me being a bit hyper-cautious - as I'm apt to be...
8. Thread cotton cord or cotton tape (or straps made from fabric) through the casing from each side of the bag. On each side you will need enough strap to go through the casing and reach down to the bottom of the bag (as shown below) 9. Push the ends of the straps/cord through the gaps in the seam on the bottom corners and pin them into place.
10. Turn the bag through to the wrong side and re-align the pin to finish off the seam on the bottom corner - trapping the strap between the front and back of the bag. It's also a good idea to zig-zag or overlock the edges of the webbing or strap to stop it from fraying.

11. Turn it through to the right side and THAT'S IT!!! You've made a bag in under 30 minutes!!!