How to insert eyelets in straps

My cinematographer and I have been at it again... This time it's a video tutorial on using our eyelet kits - something I'm often asked to demonstrate in classes.

I'm using the saddlers punch (again) and working on the Day Bag.

I love my saddler's punch... have I mentioned that before?



For those of you who missed it, I also have a tutorial (not video) on how to use eyelet pliers - here.

Adjustable strap tutorial

This is a new one... but a long overdue one. It's one of those things that is easier to show in ACTION rather than words and pictures, so I've put it off until now... but here goes.

I've made the strap in the tutorial a lurid green with black stitching to enhance the contrast... under normal circumstances I'd colour-match the fabric and thread.

HOW TO MAKE AN ADJUSTABLE STRAP....
The same rules of construction apply whether you're using webbing and plastic fittings or metal fittings and fabric.

1. Cut a short length of strap and thread it through a square ring, d-ring or o-ring.

2. Stitch the strap together (to hold the ring at the top of the strap loop). This can be done by stitching horizontally across the strap, stitching vertically along the edges of the strap, stitching an x in the middle... or a combination of all of them. Alternatively you could use eyelets to hold the ring in place.

3. Thread the end of a LONG strap over the middle bar of a tri-glide or slide adjuster (or buckle with the wire diddly bit in the middle wrenched off with pliers).

4. Fold the strap over the middle bar and stitch it back on to the long strap. If you have raw ends of fabric or webbing, you'll need to turn these under and stitch around to completely conceal them. If you've been to one of my classes, you'd have already learned a few tricks to keep these ends neat!!! ;).
5. Lay the tri-glide end of the strap on the table with the WRONG side of the strap facing up (the side with the turned under end). Thread the other end through the ring you attached to the shorter strap.

6. Thread the end of the long strap through the tri-glide.

7. It should look a bit like this on the UNDERSIDE (and the long end of the strap continues beyond the tri-glide).

8. Attach both ends of the strap to your bag in the usual way. If you don't know what "the usual way" is, I suggest you either buy a pattern or come to a class, and I'll show you!!

Copyright Nicole Mallalieu 2008

Happy sewing
xxn

Eyelet Tutorial

It appears that our new Eyelet Pliers don't come with instructions, so here's a quick tutorial to show you JUST HOW EASY it is to set eyelets with them. 1. Mark the spot where you want to place the eyelet.

2. Punch or cut a small hole in the centre of the marking.

TIP 1: The easiest thing for the job is a SADDLER'S PUNCH, pictured above (we'll have them on the website within the next day or two. BTW- they're handy for making PURSE FEET holes, too!). Or you can try any other punching/cutting tool that you know will make a less-than-6mm hole in your fabric.

Tip 2: It's better to err on the side of the hole being too small, rather than too big. You don't want a wobbly eyelet that's going to fall out within a week or two!!! A 4mm hole will do the trick for a 6mm holed eyelet.

3. Push an eyelet through from the right side of fabric.

4. Place a washer over the back of the back of the fabric (where the cylindrical end of the eyelet is poking through). Make sure that the RAISED curve of the washer is facing up, and press it down over the fabric so that you can clearly see the end of the eyelet poking through the washer.

5. Line up the pliers with the flat side of the pliers on the FRONT of the eyelet (on the right side of fabric) and the side with the LUMP in the middle goes to the BACK (washer) side, as shown in the pic below. I know this LOOKS wrong, but it's not. Double-check that the eyelet and washer are still aligned and..... 6. SQUEEZE! Check that the centre of the eyelet has rolled sufficiently over the the washer to make the eyelet secure.

TIP 3: Eyelets prefer a bit of thickness in the fabric. The thinner your fabric the more the eyelet will crack as it rolls over the washer. The more it rolls and cracks the rougher the back of the eyelet will be. This isn't necessarily a problem - just something to be aware of if the back of eyelets are placed where they could rub on skin or delicate fabric.

Left: This is the back of the eyelet on a strap with interfacing in it

Right: This is the back of an eyelet in a thin fabric strap (same fabric but no interfacing)

And this is the FRONT of the eyelet.... swish, huh?

I don't know about you, but I LOVE a bit of metal on a bag....